Thursday, 9/16/10 — To the Dolomites
After breakfast at the hotel, we packed up to head for the Dolomites. Steve had one heck of a time getting the car out of the garage. Four or 5 locals got into the act, all offering directions at once. It was harrowing, but the BMW emerged without a scratch.
Jill took us right to the autostrassa and toll road looking for the quickest route (without ferries).
We drove through lots of industrial areas – Northern Italy is, after all, where the money is. We missed a turn off to Bolzano. We were planning to defy Jill and have lunch in Bolzano – but being the task master she is, she kept us on the route.
After Bolzano, we left the speeding toll roads and autostrasses, following roads in the country, passing by acre after acre of what looked to be an apple orchard planted with apple trees shaped like grape vines. Then we climbed higher and higher into mountains with eye popping scenery – what beauty!
We arrived in Selva di Val Gardena at about 2 p.m. and found our apartment, Residence Carin. A cute gal named Catherine, daughter of the owner, got us settled in. We adore this place – 2 bedrooms / 2 bathrooms / lots of room and very comfy and surrounded with great views of the mountains. We scored – thanks to a journal on the Fodor's website by Mr. And Mrs. Go from Chicago who recommended this place.
IF YOU’RE IN THE DOLOMITES STAY HERE --
Residence Carin
Email -- info@residencecarin.it; www.residencecarin.it.
Residence Carin |
Residence Carin |
Our apartment at Residence Carin |
View from our apartment |
We walked into town for lunch and found a place for beer and sandwiches. Although the maps tell us this is Northern Italian, I don’t believe it. It has to be Germany or Austria or Switzerland. Nobody speaks Italian. Everything is Swiss Chalet style with wood carvings – nothing like the palaces and towns we saw in the Lake District.
Restaurant in Selva |
Lunch al fresco |
Steve and Daira |
Bill and I |
Ready for hiking |
After lunch we took care of business – unpacking, getting oriented at the tourist office, talking to Catherine’s mom at the Ski shop, buying a 6-day bus / ski lift pass, getting food at the grocery store and finally coming home and picking a place for dinner.
“Mrs. Go” recommended Rino. Daira and I shared a polenta dish with fungi – the absolute BEST MEAL I’ve had. We are very happy – accept for the predicted rains coming in tomorrow – Boo Hoo.
We are fascinated by a different language here called Ladin. It’s the language spoken by only about 25,000 people, most of whom live in this area. Ladin language and culture is being revived – newscasters use Ladin and it’s taught in school.
Friday, 9/17/10 – Exploring the Dolomites
We ate breakfast at the apartment, debating where (and if) we should take a hike, given the chance of rain. Steve went into town to find a laundromat and ended up having to pay about €5 to have someone dry a few pairs of underwear. He and Daira left for their own adventure and we hopped on a bus to Ortisei, about 6 miles from our apartment.
We got off the bus in the main center of Ortisei and got a little disoriented trying to find the Museum Gherdeina. (I finally gave up and asked someone for help – a real no-no for guys – but she pointed us in the right direction!)
The Museum Gherdeina was a real treasure trove and a great place to be tucked out of the rain – it was pouring.
We wandered among the interesting, eclectic displays:
- Local wood carvings -- In the 17–18th century, the townsfolk, both men and women, took up wood carving to pass the long winter months. Their work has become famous. I viewed the clever pieces of mom spanking kids, sleighs with intricate carvings, and some usual church statues. Each piece seemed as if it had soul.
- A house, built back in 1490, was found and reassembled piece by piece in the museum. You could view the detailed carvings on walls through scopes hooked up to a computer – fascinating.
- Ancient wooden toys – dolls, animals. The wooden doll faces with their individual painted faces intrigued me. I now get how the story of Pinocchio came to be.
- Famous film director / actor – Luis Trenker, born in Ortisei in 1892 – who was an amazing super human – author, film director, architect, mountaineer.
- Minerals / fossils that showed evidence of life here from over 10,000 years ago. 280 million year-old plants and sea creatures were found in the valley.
Museum Gherdeina |
Museum Gherdeina |
We stopped in at St. Jacob’s Church with the elaborate wood carvings that looked like paintings. The church was refurbished in 2008 – all the wall paintings had been done again by hand – everything bright and vibrant.
St. Jacob’s Church |
St. Jacob’s Church |
St. Jacob’s Church |
We visited ARTS 52 - a gallery exhibition hall that houses works by 52 local sculptors and painters from the region. Each display case has the work and the contact information -- a business card or brochure. After seeing the magnificent works, I have new respect for wood carving.
We walked up through the town and Bill bought a pair of underwear to replace the pair where the elastic has gone south – cost €11 – but quite sexy.
Ortisei |
Ortisei |
Ortisei |
Ortisei |
We found a cozy little place by the square for lunch – Café Corso. We highly recommend it.
Cafe Corso |
Cosy Cafe Corso |
The rain had stopped, but it was still gray and drizzly. We wanted so badly to be in the mountains, so we took a chance and grabbed a gondola to Furnes – way up into the clouds and then took another cable car to go even higher, to Seceda. We were the only ones in the cable car and got to chat with the operator. He pointed out the marmot who lives up in the mountains.
Cable Car from Ortisie to Furnes |
Cable Car to Seceda |
Cable Car Attendant |
Marmot near Seceda Cable Car Station |
Even in that drizzle, gray-filled afternoon, we were blown away by the Dolomites. Dolomite is a mineral (much like limestone) that shoots up in high rock monoliths straight from the meadow valley. It’s like El Capitan in Yosemite, only bigger. We saw pictures of the place before we came, but never imagined anything so beautiful.
Clouds and mist at the Seceda Station |
Bill on the trail toward Rifugio Firenze |
The first part of the trail was very steep and slippery from the rain. Our shoes got very muddy and we did a controlled descent on our butts. Darn, we left our poles back at the apartment.
We hiked through God’s country at the base of Ole Giezer and through green meadows and healthy cows with clouds kissing the vast mountain peaks. BEAUTIFUL!
Clouds and mist |
Bill on the trail |
Nancy loves to photograph cows |
Healthy cow |
Nancy looking for cows |
Beautiful views |
Beautiful views |
Heading toward Rifugio Firenze |
Trail to Rifugio Firenze |
Trail to Rifugio Firenze |
What's this? |
Rifugio Firenze |
We stopped at Firenzo Refugeio (established in 1888) and shared a beer $2.80 – half the price of one in town. Cozy place with a friendly vibe. There was a poster of Luis Trenker, the famous film director/actor we had learned about just this morning from the museum in town – God, don’t you love traveling!
Building near Rifugio Frirenze |
Trenker Poster |
Dolomites in the clouds |
Trekkers heading out from Rifugio Firenze |
We hiked to Col Raiser and took a cable car down to St. Christina – amazing sights from up above. We saw streams running downhill, farms, gardens, sheep and cows everywhere. I learned that the diary industry is second, next to tourism for the area. In fact, 250,000 gallons of milk are produced each year and lots of that milk goes to Bolzano to be made into cheese. You could tell these were very healthy cows because their poop was so dark and rich.
Col Raiser Station |
Col Raiser Station |
We walked into St. Christina and took the bus back to Selva and our home, Residence Carin.
Steve and Daira had just returned from their day exploring surrounding towns (and bakeries) in the Dolomites.
We went off to La Bula’s for dinner. I made the mistake of ordering polenta and funghi – doesn’t compare with the one from the night before – still a cozy little place.
We walked home in a light rain. Bill did the wash. Our condo has a washer – but no dryer, so we strung our stuff up all around the apartment
Saturday, 9/18/10 – A Rainy Day in Balzano
We ate breakfast at the apartment and watched the clouds roll in. We decided to go to Bolzano to see “The Iceman” at the museum.
The Iceman (named Oetzi) is an actual mummy discovered in 1991 by a German couple hiking on the border of Italy and Austria. They reported it to the authorities. Forensic scientist determined that Oetzi was killed by an arrow to the shoulder some 5,300 years ago. In 1992, they conducted an in-depth archeological study of the entire area and found out some amazing facts. Oetzi was carrying a copper hatchet, which placed the copper era at a much earlier date. They found remains of shoes, bear skin hat, copper hatchet, grass coat, loin cloth, pouch and storage casement for carrying sparks to make fire.
DNA testing revealed that the Iceman ate deer jerky for his last meal and suffered from arthritis. He was 46-53 years old (old for his time), was about 5’ 6” and weighed 120 pounds. He had dark, curly hair and sported tattoos on his body used to relief pain – the earliest acupuncture. In a quiet, respectful room in the museum, we viewed the actual Oetzi with his leathery skin intact.
We continued our tour of the rest of the museum with our brains filling with facts from the most informative audio guide -- the Iron Age, the Bronze Age, the Roman roads, pots, and weapons.
We couldn’t hold one more fact so we stumbled onto the streets of Bolzano in the pouring rain. We found our way to Hopfen and Company for lunch – a hopping place according to Rich Steves. It’s been a tavern since the 1600’s. Now it’s a micro brewery. We ordered the white sausages. We ate, drank and watched the rain outside pouring down the window. Great to be tucked away in this 800-year old house.
Micro Brewery at Hopfen & Co. |
Bill, Steve and Daira |
We stopped in at a church to get out of the rain. I studied the pictures of kids who were baptized and then prayed (for patience) to relax my neck. It worked – I felt very calm. Calm enough to dash back to the parking garage with lots of rain and the lots of driving tensions. I have to say that Steve is a trooper. He drove 6 miles out of the way to visit Castlerotto – because Rick Steves likes it. We couldn’t see the scenery because it was socked in and we couldn’t explore the place because there were no parking spaces – so we turned around and came home for a much needed beer.
Church in Bolzano |
Bolzano |
For dinner, we walked across the street to Speckkeller -- another cozy, quaint place. We order a beef something. We didn’t know it would be served cold. It wasn't what we were expecting – but that’s OK.
Dinner at Speckkeller |
Speckkeller |
We came back to the apartment and emailed family and friends because I’m missing them. I also did some postcards and then worked on the journal until midnight. I’m a driven woman and this is supposed to be my vacation.
Latest weather report -- Showers expected to pass by 8:00 in the morning with sunny skies ahead – YEAH!
Sunday, 9/19/10 – Hiking in the Dolomites
Beautiful sunny morning -- We ate breakfast at the condo and headed out in the bright sunlight!
Steve and Daira started out with us with a cable car ride to Dantercepies. We snapped some photos, and headed toward Jimmy's Hut. Steve and Daira decided to explore the area around Dantercerpies while Bill and I headed down the Panorama trail.
A clear view of Sassolungo |
Sassolungo |
Steve and Daira at Dantercepies |
Bill and Nancy |
Looking down from Dantercerpies |
The route for tomorrow's hike |
Bill taking movies |
Starting down the Panorama trail |
A view from the top of Panorama |
Rifugio Panorama |
Looking back toward Dantercerpies |
Heading toward Selva |
Jesus is everywhere |
Getting close to Selva |
Heading back to our apartment |
Selva |
Chalets |
Everything was green |
We had pizza and beer at La Bula in town with the “after-church” crowd. Everyone had their Sunday best on and everyone knew each other, except for us.
After lunch, we took the Ciampinoi cable car to the top and walked back down to Selva on Trail 21 and 21a. At times we walked down the grass on the ski slopes because we had better traction on the grass instead of the scree or muddy road. (We were a little disappointed in the hike.)
View from the cable car |
Selva from Cable Car |
Bill, the intrepid hiker |
Nancy on the trail |
From the Champnoi Cable Car |
Champnoi Cable Car |
Bill at Champnoi |
Nancy getting ready to head down |
The road back to Selva |
Views from the trail |
Which way do we go? |
Rifugio along the way |
Bill was in the way of a nice photo |
This is a ski slope in winter |
Heading into the trees |
Back to Selva |
We got back to the apartment about 3:30 after having clocked 10 miles of hiking today. We took showers. Steve and Daira came home about 4:00. Bill, Steve and I walked down to the pub for a beer and potato chips. We went back to get Daira and then walked to the Rino for dinner. Bill and I shared a polenta fungi – wasn’t as good as the first night I had one. I felt a little bad that I made Bill share the order with me. (Their table wine is the best.) It was a nice dinner. We walked back to the apartment to call it a day.
Monday, 9/20/10 – Puez Odle, Our Best Hike of the Trip
NOTE: I am tired and do not want to write in my journal tonight – Did a tough 11-mile hike and then circled back through town. I am brain dead and only hoping that the muse will find me. Now here goes the journal entry for today:
We finished up the last of our breakfast supplies at the apartment. We piled in the car and drove to the supermarket to buy more supplies, especially beer – then made a quick stop at the local bakery. We got some bread and breakfast goodies – cinnamon bun for Bill, chocolate croissant for me. We stopped by the apartment to unload our stuff and headed out for one heck of a hike.
We all drove in Steve’s car to the Dantercepies cable car, not far from our apartment. It took about 20 minutes to climb 2,300 ' to reach Dantercepies. Bill and I ate our breakfast goodies in the cable car. At the top Bill discovered he left his trail map behind in the cable car – wasn’t happy about it.
From the cable car station at the top, the 4 of us followed the trail past Jimmy’s Hut and then up a steep slope. The trail hung to the side of a huge cliff, going higher and higher, until we reached a saddle at Alta Via Dolomiti. Sunshine and drama were everywhere.
View of trail from Dantercrepies |
Sella Massif (Steve in foreground) |
Bill |
Trail |
Steve and Daira |
Daira climbing to Passo Cir |
Rugged trail climbs to Passo Cir |
View from the trail |
Looking down from Passo Cir |
Steve at the Pass |
Steve and Daira decided to head down a very steep trail back toward town. Bill and I hiked on toward Rifugio Puez. Never in my life have I seen such beauty. We looked up at tall rock mountains, down at green valleys and over a lake reflecting the mountains on the very steep trail. I suppose we were hiking over Dolomite minerals. Most of the rocks and cliffs were white jagged beauty. We didn’t see much variation in the rock colors – but what we did see was drama everywhere. We passed a stone memorial for someone named Lorenzo who died on the trail – at age 56. We speculated that he probably had a heart attack.
Rugged terrain |
Trail to Passo Crespeina |
On the way to Rifugio Puez |
Bill studying his trail guide |
Beautiful views everywhere |
Hikers taking in the view |
Bill |
Lake Crespeina |
Jagged Peaks |
The hike continues |
Incredible views |
Some hikers taking a rest |
Finally, after what seemed forever, we saw the flag to the Rifugio Puez – and what a refuge it was. People filled the picnic tables outside overlooking an incredible view. Hiking in Europe is different--just when you really need a rest, there's a cafe in the middle of nowhere. We shared a ham and cheese sandwich. Everyone seemed so happy to be there -- sharing nature, awestruck by the experience. We saw 3 or 4 of the fattest, most content rabbits on the grounds of the Rifugio and wondered why they hung out there.
Glacial Vallunga valley |
Rifugio Puez--finally |
Rifugio Puez |
Heading down |
After lunch we headed down the long descent into the valley below. There were several trails--one that descended directly to the valley and another that followed a ridge line and was a longer hike back. We chose the ridge line trail (Trail 2 to Trail 17). This was a good choice because the scenery and weather were gorgeous. We passed by sheep and cattle, all with tinkling bells around their necks. Bill gets annoyed with me when I stop to take photos of sheep and cows – but there were no wild animals to be seen and the one photo of a fat rabbit was out of focus.
Starting off from Rifugio Puez |
Sheep along the trail |
Incredible scenery |
Typical Dolomite rock face |
The steep steps going down were relentless. We wondered whether our knees would get us back to flat ground.
Steps to the valley |
Bill and valley below |
Lots of steps |
Heading down |
Looking back |
Across the valley |
Just when I was growing very weary of the long downhill trek, a delightful gentleman passed me and said something about the wonderful park we were in – then I remembered not to wish that this experience would end. It was truly a magnificent place and a magnificent day.
Finally, we reached the flat trail through the valley and into town. I saw so many people – old geezers like ourselves, young couples, families and dogs enjoying the beautiful valley – It was truly a happy place.
Almost to the valley |
Approaching civilization |
Cows (Nancy's favorite subject) |
Horses in the Dolomites |
Getting back to town |
Looking back |
We went into town (Selva di Val Gardena) and doubled back to the tourist office so Bill could buy a replacement map and check on bus schedules. I didn’t really want to add any extra distance, but am glad we did because I got to check out the town center – tucked off the main road in a pedestrian walkway. About 5 or 6 buildings make up the heart of the town. The buildings are modern – certainly didn’t look like any alpine village. The church steeple seemed old, but it was connected to a big, rotunda-looking sanctuary. The school, library and other official buildings were impressive. I can only speculate how the once-little village grew quickly into a tourist town with lots of money on the tax rolls to finance such a place. Bill read the population is 3,000 inhabitants with 12,000 rooms. In spite of its modern image, it seemed like a very livable and happy place to be – but of course, we are here in the bright, beautiful sunshine with temperature about 70 – what could be nicer?
Rotunda-looking sanctuary |
Jesus on the church |
Val di Gardena |
Val di Gardena |
Art Gallery |
Art Gallery |
Val di Gardena |
Val di Gardena |
School in Val di Gardena |
Library in Val di Gardena |
At 5:00, after 12 miles on our feet, we got back to the condo, tired and very smelly. We had a beer (first things first), took a shower and then went back to the Rino to have dinner with Steve and Daira. Bill and I shared a big salad and a pizza. We’ve grown accustomed to the folks at the Rino, but will have to find a new place for the next two nights because they will be closed.
We walked back to our condo, checked email, downloaded photos to relive the beauty we had today.
P.S. Yeah! I finished the entry -- The muse never came by to help me out. It’s hell being so disciplined, but now it’s lights out. |
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Tuesday, 9/21/10 – Passo Sella
After breakfast, Steve took care of some Daira requests – to the post office and to the bakery. He asked me for a request and I said, “Play Misty for Me.” We had a laugh and then were off to Passo Sella.
We boarded these coffin-looking cable cars – or rather were shoved into the cars and headed straight up Sassolungo. We watched the hikers below us making it up the arduous uphill unrelenting switchback trail below. WHY?
Coffin-looking cable car |
Looking back from the "coffin" |
Up to Sassolungo |
Coffins |
Looking down toward Passo Sella |
Hikers on the trail below |
At the top, we were pulled out of the coffin cable cars and I was admonished by the big Italian guy charged with unloading the car. After I jumped on Bill, he repeated, “Slowly, SLOWLY,” to me. How’d he know to use English? I secretly dread the ride back down.
We snapped photos of each other and documented the peaks. We also watched in horror as rock climbers hung onto the cliffs way above our heads. I did a little people watching at the Rifugio at the top and was surprised to hear some American accents.
Rifugio Demetz (at the top) |
Nancy standing in the saddle |
Hiking around the top |
Bill and Nancy |
After we had “been to the mountain top,” we were jammed back into the cable car for the ride back. We watched some para gliders soar in the updrafts around the huge cliffs that jutted up from the valleys. (Their numbers increased as the day wore on and they filled the skies overhead.)
Para glider |
We arrived at Rifugio Paso Sella, below, before noon. I was hungry and Bill ordered a ham and cheese sandwich to share. (The sandwich was the best yet – or maybe I was exceptionally hungry from the long hike the day before.) We were charmed by our waiter – very charismatic and sporting a single gold earring.
After lunch, Bill found an easy 4 mile trail through a valley and up to Piz Seteur Rifugio. The last part was a steep climb up. The Rifugio was closed for the season. I sat on the porch waiting for the others. I was thrilled to discover what I thought were mushrooms on the ground below. Mushrooms are hard to find and you must have a “mushroom hunting license” to take them. I was sure this was a big crop. However, on further investigation, I discovered these weren’t mushrooms at all, but rather tossed out individual coffee bags covered in dirt.
Hiking from Paso Sella. . . |
. . . toward Rifugio Piz Seteur |
"Mushrooms" |
View from Rifugio Piz Seteur |
The others made their way to the top. Magnificent day. Bill and Steve were trying to determine the best trail back to the car. I lay on my back on the upper deck and used my imagination looking for forms in the white, puffy clouds floating overhead – think I spotted a giant mushroom. A pudgy German woman and her husband appeared on the scene and said they just had the best apple strudel with plum sauce and pointed in one direction. Daira was off and running – then Steve had to reel her back in to get her going in the right direction. Beer does it for me – apple straddle for Daira.
It's a bird, it's a plane . . . |
Back to Paso Sella |
It was a lovely hike back, up over meadows with fabulous views of the Dolomites and then through granite boulders. Tall pine trees had made their homes in some of the large boulders, burrowing in the top. Imagine that, starting as a seedling, finding a bit of dirt on the rock and then putting down roots (and your door mat) to call it home.
Mountains everywhere |
Easy trail back |
Rugged Dolomites |
Bill and Steve |
Pine seedling |
Jagged Dolomites |
Sassolungo |
Great view |
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We passed by 5 or 10 guys at the top of one of the large outcroppings. They were learning how to do bouldering and repelled down. The instructor was loud and strict in his commands. You don’t mess around in that sport.
Learning to climb |
Repelling |
We arrived back at the Rifugio where earlier that day we shared a sandwich. Because the afternoon was so warm and lovely, we stopped for a beer. The same waiter (with the single gold earring) served up a round of beer. Daira asked if he did any of the sports. He said, “Up here, you are born with skis on your feet.” He did it all – climbing, para-gliding, skiing – but now he has two little ones and has to be responsible. We were charmed even more.
Back to Rifugio Paso Sella |
Dolomites |
We walked back to the car, still admiring the breath-taking scenery. Steve had maybe 20 or 25 hairpin turns on the narrow road and then we were home. He did stop for one oversized truck. Driving in these here parts is not for the faint of heart. Steve keeps his cool and gets us back alive – knock on wood!
Bill did the laundry while I downloaded the photos and got to relive the beauty of the day all over again. Steve and Daira walked into town, then at 7, we all went for dinner at the Speckkeller across the street. We had a salad and goulash with 3 different kinds of dumplings. We were all so very happy. The meal reminded Steve of his good old, home cooked boyhood meals. The restaurant is very cozy and very much a local hangout. There was a celebration in the adjacent room. Rosy-cheeked laborers and their rounded wives were eating mass quantities of dumplings while a very bad and very loud duet (trumpet and accordion) played a few um-pa-pa melodies. Our waiter said they were celebrating finishing up the hard labor, preparing the roads, the ski lifts, and mowing the fields for the upcoming ski season when this place is in full force. It was fun getting a peak at the real folks who live here.
We went back to the condo to journal and settle into bed.
Wednesday, 9/22/10 – Alpe di Siusi
Steve didn’t sleep well last night and Daira slept in, so Bill and I took off for our last glorious day in the Dolomites. Weather couldn’t be finer.
We caught the bus to Ortisei to take the cable car to hike Alpe de Siusi. We’re getting to be old hands at hopping on and off cable cars – and growing accustomed to such beautiful scenery.
We headed down the path overlooking Alpe de Siusi with its cottages, farms, pastures of cows and horses. Also among us were the tourists (mostly German), buses, horse drawn carts and occasional bike riders. It was a truly, happy beautiful valley – but the sunshine brings out the crowds.
Trail head at top of cable car |
View of Alpe di Siusi |
Idyllic setting |
Trail to Campatsch |
What century is this? |
"Taxi" to Campatsch |
We walked into Compatsch – overflowing with tourists. We went to the tourist office to check bus schedules and figure out our escape, but we just missed the bus to Castlerotto so went to Plan B. We took a bus back through the valley and hopped off to take a path uphill that would take us to a ski lift, but Plan C was hatched when we learned that the ski lift wasn’t in operation. So we had to hike all the way back to the cable car (to carry us to Ortisei).
This way to Campatsch |
Alpe di Siusi |
Campatsch |
Another Jesus |
On the way back to the cable car, I was attracted to this little cottage and wandered up to the front door. There was an elderly German couple sitting on the front porch and a delightful woodcarver making himself lunch – fried potatoes and beer. We peeked in his workshop. I was touched by his wonderful woodcarvings. Luckily the German woman translated for us. We learned that she and her husband have been coming to hike in the Dolomites for 37 years. They discovered the jolly little woodcutter some 35 years ago and have bought 3 of his works. I was fascinated and wanted to learn more, but it was late and we had a long uphill trail ahead so the lady snapped a few photos of us and we were off and running.
Woodcarver and German Couple |
Woodcarver's workshop |
Wood carving |
An artist in wood |
Back on the trail we passed a couple of locals gals mixed in among the hikers. They looked “Amish” and very out of place in their own back yard. Bill was growing weary of my shutter finger and desire to capture all the horses and pastoral scenes I could find.
Alpe di Siusi |
The old country |
Horses and wagon |
Horses |
Bill figuring out our route |
Bill on the trail |
Cute cabin |
Alpe di Siusi |
Alpe di Siusi |
Flower |
We finally arrived at the lift and rode back down to Ortisei. I stretched out on the ride back. How glorious to see Ortisei in the sunlight. We hit the town and made a bee-line back to Café Corso, our favorite little place off the main square for a well-deserved lunch. We both woofed down our own sandwich – no sharing – and washed it down with a beer.
Nancy relaxing after a long hike |
Back to Ortisei |
Ortisei |
Church in Ortisei |
Ortisei |
Ortisei |
We caught a bus to Santa Christina hoping to ride a cable car up so we could hike back to Selva in the rugged high country. But as luck would have it, the lift was not operating and we were foiled again.
We were at a loss for a while, trying to figure out a way to take a trail high up over the valley back home. (It didn’t help that I was hell bent on finding the world’s largest nativity scene in Santa Christina – I think I saw it, but it looked too small to be called the largest.)
Ortisei |
The largest navitivy scene in the world |
Finally Bill took charge and we found a trail that led down the valley from San Christina, across the river and back up the mountain. I really enjoyed walking through forest pines interspersed with pastures, all overlooking the little towns (accentuated with their bell towers). We passed by the Fischburg Castle, which is closed to the public. How I wanted to see it up close. It was built between 1622 and 1641 and was used as a summer residence and hunting lodge. The castle has been owned by the Franchetti Barons since 1926 – lucky duckies.
Hiking up from San Christina |
Fischburg Castle |
Fischburg Castle |
Fischburg Castle |
Selva di Gardena |
The path back home |
About 4:30, we finally hiked down the hill and through “our town” and back to our apartment. Steve and Daira arrived from their day out just minutes after us. Bill did the laundry and then chatted a little with Arnold – the owner of the apartment. He was reading a newspaper in Ladin. About 25,000 people are part of the Ladin culture and are keeping the language alive.
We ate at La Bula again with the friendliest, over-the-hill gal who was wearing a t-shirt that said, “FUN” stretched across her over-sized boobs … and I’m sure she’d be fun. I liked her warm personality. Bill and I shared a salad and wiener schnitzel (AKA chicken fried steak) and fries.
We walked back to the condo while the guys talked about how sexy Sophie Loren is all the way home.
We all had a great time in the Dolomites. I think Bill is a little grumpy that we didn’t do a really killer hike today. The valleys today were nice and very hilly . . . but a little too tame for his tastes. He’s not a Sunday-stroll-in-the-park kind of guy.
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