Wild West Road Trip, Page 2 <Previous Page | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | Next Page>
                             

Sunday, Sept. 11, 2011 - Grand Teton to Yellowstone

We had breakfast at the Lodge and went back to the cabin to pack up.  We bumped into our neighbors.  She was not a routy yapper.  In fact, they were a shy, cute young couple living in New Orleans.  We wished them a nice safe journey and then drove off to Yellowstone. 

Our first stop in Yellowstone was at Fisherman’s Cove.  An in-charge middle-aged Ranger named Nina was gathering a crowd for the ranger-led walk.  We told her that we weren’t sure we had enough time to do an hour walk with her and see all the other things in that part of the park.  Very confidently she replied, “Well you can see a lot of things, but you wouldn’t know what you’re looking at.”  She sold me; we needed an orientation. 

Coca, a God-forsaken frontier town
Fisherman's Cove, Yellowstone N. P.
Ranger Nina
Ranger Nina

We learned a lot from Nina.  She said these amazing thermo features only exist if there is P2HEW – Plumbing, Pressure, Heat, Earthquake (which are always going on somewhere here) and Water.  She said the different kinds of algae (microorganisms forming) is what causes the different colors.  She showed us where the early tourists fished in the lake at Fisherman’s Cove and then held their fishing poles (with recently caught fish attached) over the thermo coves to cook the fish.  Not a good idea.  The flumes and heat and acid coming from these features can be deadly.  The acid is about the same as battery acid.  We liked Nina, but the crowd was big. 

Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove
Fisherman's Cove

We made a peanut butter sandwich and had a picnic in Fisherman’s Cove and then drove to the trail head for Lone Star Geyser.  The 5-mile trail was mostly along a paved road.  Although it was pleasant, it got boring after a while.  We got to Lone Star Geyser just 20 minutes after a big, powerful eruption, according to hiker’s notes on the log.

Trail to Lone Star Geyser
Trail to Lone Star Geyser
Trail to Lone Star Geyser
Trail to Lone Star Geyser
Lone Star Geyser
Lone Star Geyser
Lone Star Geyser
Lone Star Geyser

Next stop was Old Faithful.  She’s named Old Faithful because her eruptions are pretty much on time, not like most other geysers.  The crowd built up waiting for her next big eruption.  She was about 5 minutes later than posted, but she gave us a good show.  I got Geyser fever after seeing her and wanted more. 

Old Faithful Lodge
Old Faithful Lodge
Old Faithful Lodge
Old Faithful Nancy and the Geyser
Crowds waiting for Old Faithful
Crowds waiting for Old Faithful
Old Faithful
Ever faithful, thar she blows

We went back into the Visitor’s Center just as they were announcing another geyser (I think it was Beehive) was about to blow.  We dashed to the trail and were very excited to get another show.  We decided to continue on the Geyser Hill Trail and then west going from one geyser to the next.  The trail was so beautiful and the lighting so perfect, I went a little crazy documenting it with my camera.  Just as we were finishing the 3 or 4 mile trail, the clouds came in bringing a few sprinkled with more in store.

Geyser Trail
Beehive Geyser
Geyser Trail
Another Geyser
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser TrailGeyser Trail Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail
Geyser Trail

We drove to our final destination, West Yellowstone, viewing a bison and some elk along the way.  Your first animals are always the most exciting – but the traffic backs up at each animal spotting.

Buffalo in Yellowstone
Buffalo in Yellowstone
Nancy and Buffalo
Nancy excited to see her first buffalo

We got to the Kelly Inn in West Yellowstone and settled into our room.  I was starving and saw a “Wild West Pizza” delivery truck just outside the lobby.  I asked the woman at the desk about “Wild West Pizza” and she said, “It’s pretty good for a small town.”  She also told us that the other pizza place in town isn’t open.  The storm came through and knocked their electricity out. 

We settled into our room and then walked a few blocks to have a delicious “Wild West” pizza.  We watched the Dallas Cowboys / New York Jets football game on the big screen in the noisy bar.  It was very exciting.  It looked like the Cowboys were going to whoop New York.  We came back to the room to finish watching the game when New York blocked a field goal and won in the last minutes.  It was a pride thing for New York winning on the 10th anniversary of 9/11.  I’m glad my Dad isn’t alive to see his Cowboys go down to a sad defeat.      

Monday, Sept. 12, 2011 - Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone – too much beauty to absorb!  At 6:30 we had breakfast at the Kelly Inn.  It was your typical free-with-the-room “hot breakfast.”  We did have fun with the automatic pancake maker.

We gassed up in West Yellowstone and headed for Madison, 14 miles down the road.  The early morning mist rising from the streams was eerie and beautiful.

On the road to Madison
On the road to Madison
Yellowstone in the morning
Yellowstone in the morning

We did the Firehole Canyon Drive – but the morning fog veiled the scenery.  We saw Gibbon Falls and the damage left from the fire of 1988.  Gibbon was a general under Custer.  His claim to fame was he buried Custer.  Later he chased Chief Joseph out of the valley.  Poor Chief Jo gave up just five miles from Canada’s border and said he just didn’t have any more fight in him.

Gibbon Falls
Gibbon Falls
Firehole Canyon Drive
Firehole Canyon Drive

Before we got to Norris, we hiked the Artist Paint Pot trail.  I was horrified when my camera went dead – but after some time, Bill breathed life back into it.  It was a low point for me.  The morning misty, fog blocked the views of the gurgling, mud pots, small geysers, hot pools and steam vents.

Artist Paint Pot trail
Artist Paint Pot trail
Artist Paint Pot trail
Artist Paint Pot trail

Our next stop was Norris Geyser Basin.  We started at the old rock Visitor Center.  The guide said, “Geysers are unpredictable here, but maybe you’ll be in luck.”  The trail was fun and the morning sun was clearing the fog away 

I didn’t want to leave Steamboat Geyser.  It looked like it was ready to erupt at any moment – but it was just teasing us.  Its last eruption was in May of 2005.  An older lady (older than me) said she comes every day hoping to see Steamboat blow – so I waited a bit with her.  Bill placated me for some time.  I knew when his patience had run out and he was ready to move on down the trail to other non-erupting geysers.  The colors from Porcelain Basin trail were wonderful – Thank goodness my camera is back in action.

Steamboat Geyser
Steamboat Geyser
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin

We drove from Norris, passing by Upper and Lower Terraces to find a turkey deli sandwich in Mammoth Hot Springs, a charming old fort town. The General Store was very cool … but their turkey deli sandwiches sucked.  We sat out on the picnic table wishing we had done our usual and made peanut butter sandwiches from the stash in our trunk. 

Mammoth Hot Springs
Mammoth Hot Springs
Mammoth Hot Springs
Mammoth Hot Springs

While downing our yucky turkey sandwich at the picnic table, we met Ranger Debbie.  She knew everything about the place and happily shared her knowledge.  We walked with her up to the Albright Visitor’s Center, which once was the Cavalry Fort.  The Visitor Center had simple displays focusing on the key people who discovered Yellowstone.  (Remember, Indians don’t count.)   

Yellowstone was first seen by a white guy named John Colter in 1807.  We learned about Colter in the Grand Teton.  He was part of the Lewis and Clark Expedition.  He took off from the party as they were returning to do some more exploring.  He ran into some Black Foot Indians on horseback who were going to kill him, but not after having some fun with him.  They had Colter strip naked and gave him a head start on foot.  He ran so hard his nose bled.  Just as they were closing in on him, he jumped into a stream.  The Indians were angry that he got away.  Then Colter had the daunting task of surviving in this God-forsaken landscape with nothing.  Luckily he found some warmth by the thermal pools.  He could not believe that such a place existed.  Eventually he made his way out and back to relative civilization.  He told others of the things he saw.  The stories were passed along, I’m sure with some embellishments added along the way.  Little by little, other white folks came exploring.  Newspaper reporters from back east came to have a look and tell their stories in the press.  That put Yellowstone and the Wild West on the map. 

In 1872, almost 70 years after Colter stumbled into this place, Yellowstone became the first National Park.  Congress approved it based on the report from Hayden’s Survey of the territory.  His expedition, with guys like Washburn, photographer William Henry Jackson and the Wild West artist Moran, did some hard work.  Their work paid off and Yellowstone became the first National Park in the world.

Next came a whole heap of lawlessness with people flocking to the area.  The Wild West was really wild in these here parts.  Finally, Norris, the Cavalry and the Corp of Engineers came to protect the park.  They leveled natural wonders as only the Corp of Engineers can do and built barracks and other military buildings.  The government took a risk spending that kind of money to “protect” the park – but in the end, it showed that a National Park System, first in the world, was important enough to be protected.

After our walk through history at the Visitor’s Center, we stopped by the General Store for the best ice cream anywhere – which helped erase the memory of that gosh-awful turkey sandwich.

Once fortified, we retraced our steps back through town to a famous rock structure – named Liberty Cap (because it looked like a triangular military hat).  Liberty Cap was once called Mother Bear by the Indians.  Mother Bear sat in this their most sacred of places – much like our Christian ancestors view the Holy Lands.  Mother Bear is key in Indian legend.  A rumor went out that Indians never came to the Yellowstone area – which was not true.  They came here for spiritual enrichment and to pay homage to Mother Bear, who quickly became The Liberty Cap, once the cavalry moved in.  One thing is for sure, the Indians were lucky the Corp of Army Engineers didn’t flatten it – only renamed it and built a road to it. 

We hiked the Lower Terraces; then the Upper Terraces to see the travertine structures.  They looked a lot like the travertine in  Pamukkale, Turkey, but not as cool.  We walked on elevated wooden pathways overlooking the structures with exotic names like Cleopatra.  Part of the trail included great overlooks of the town of Mammoth Hot Springs.  It was fun to see the old fort town with the old army buildings.

Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces

After the hike, we drove from Mammoth Hot Springs to Tower (with Roosevelt’s Lodge).  We drove by the “Serengeti of Yellowstone,” which is a wide open space where the buffalo (and all sorts of other animals) roam.  It was a beautiful drive, but a little early for all the animals who seem to like to come out around dusk.

The rain came as we were driving to Canyon Village to view the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. Luckily the fierce rain subsided by the time we reached our next destination. We didn’t stop at the Visitor’s Center (although I am a sucker for Visitor’s Centers).  We just drove right on by and took the one-way North Rim Drive to the Upper and Lower Falls.  We stopped at various places to take little hikes out to the spectacular views overlooking the Canyon. 

Our first little hike led us down to the powerful water falls.  We stood on a wooden platform perched right over the falls.  The view gives you religion, proving unequivocally there must be a GOD.  The yellow canyon walls were even more ablaze with the afternoon sun’s rays.  Now we know why they call this place “Yellowstone.”

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone Upper Falls
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Upper Falls
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Our last mini hike down another section of the Canyon was to Inspiration Point where we shared our last Blue Moon beer.  Lots of folks were coveting our Blue Moons – only wish we had extra to sell – We could have paid for our trip. 

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Bill with his Blue Moon
Bill with his Blue Moon

We called it a day and drove 40 miles back to the Kelly Inn in West Yellowstone. We did make several stops along the way, pulling over for animal sightings.  We also had several stops for stupid drivers who stopped in the median of the road to snap shots of animals.  Makes our blood boil.

Back at the room, we had a little wine, checked our emails and had a nice long talk with Amy.  Things are going great with our little star, Zion (Annie). 

We walked into town to have dinner at Beartooth BBQ – It was GREAT.  West Yellowstone has some mighty good eateries.

We came back to the room, showered and tried to settle down from all the eye popping stuff we saw today.  Man-oh-man! 
     
Tuesday, Sept. 13, 2011 - Yellowstone National Park

Didn’t sleep very well and faced a crowd at breakfast.  The buffet isn’t very good and the magic of the automatic pancake maker is gone.  There was a large busload of Europeans who were trying to figure out what to select for breakfast, how to use the spigot on the coffee urn and what to do with the syrup. 

We managed to finish breakfast and then headed off for our first hike – Mt. Washburn – 10,243 feet.  It was a 6-mile hike with 1500 foot gain to an old fire tower.  When we started it was cold and I was whinny.  I didn’t really want to do it, but once we got started, it was really a lovely hike.  In no time at all we were smack dab at the top with 360 degree fabulous views.  We had our snack and checked out the old tower.  Bill was intrigued with a camera another hiker had that added the navigational data on each picture using its built-in GPS.  Guys love gadgets.

Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Mt. Washburn Trail
Big Horn Sheep on the Trail

When it was time to leave the peak I started racing down the mountain, zooming, feeling I’d paid the price for the long haul up and now it was time for the pay off.  Bill kept calling me back and quizzically checking his GPS.  It wasn’t making sense and I was peeling off the distance.  I’m glad guys like gadgets because we had taken the wrong trail from the top and were going nowhere fast.  We had to stop, regroup, turn around and trek back up the mountain to catch the right trail back down.  We got back to the car around noon.

We drove south to Canyon Village, made a peanut butter sandwich and found a picnic table in front of the Visitor’s Center.  (I had learned my lesson and wasn’t looking for the perfect turkey deli sandwich any more.)  There was a big parking lot, full of tour buses and confused people, so the dining experience wasn’t very lovely.  After wolfing down the sandwich, I had to have a look inside the Visitor’s Center – I’m such a VC junkie.  Bill dreads going in with me – I can find something cool in almost every exhibit and I found cool things in this nice, modern VC.

Bill finally lured me back to the car and off to Canyon Village to explore the South Rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.  (Yesterday, we only covered the North Rim.) 

Our first stop was to Inspiration Point – the place made famous by Moran’s painting.  I expected to do a tough hike, but I misread the Guide Book – which was not very clear in the first place.  We just strolled down a way to the overview with lots of other folks scurrying down and hurrying back to catch their tour bus.  What a sad way to see this place.


Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

The next hike we took was Uncle Tom’s trail. Shortly after 1900, “Uncle Tom” Richardson took visitors down into the canyon – a most scary and exhilarating hike.  It’s not for anyone with heart problems and certainly not for the faint of heart.  The “see through” 328 metal steps down cling to the wall of the Canyon.  My sweaty hands gripped the side rails – going up was probably scarier.  However, descending into the canyon was marvelous.

Uncle Tom's Trail
Uncle Tom's Trail

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

After Uncle Tom’s Trail, we had time for another activity so we stopped to see the Sulfur Caldron which has been described as “hell” and it is easy to see why.

We took the Mud Volcano Trail and went by places with names like Cooking Hillside, Mud Geysers and Dragon’s Mouth Spring.  Smoking explosions erupted from a large hole perched over a spring and it was indeed like a Dragon’s Mouth.  Bill and I had fun recording the wild sounds on my camera.

Sulfur Caldron
Sulphur Caldron
Mud Volcano Trail
Mud Volcano Trail
Mud Volcano Trail
Mud Volcano Trail
Mud Volcano Trail
Mud Volcano Trail
Mud Volcano Trail
Mud Volcano Trail
Mud Volcano Trail
Mud Volcano Trail

On the way home to the Kelly Inn in West Yellowstone, we had lots of buffalo sightings.  I am now getting jaded by seeing so many buffalo.  Today I stopped documenting buffalo I see.  Now we are just irritated by all the traffic jams caused by people stopping on the road.

Another Buffalo Sghting
Another Buffalo Sighting
Another Buffalo Sghting
More Buffalo

For dinner, we went to a cool old diner in West Yellowstone and had burgers and fries and a malt.  The food and the diner came right out of the 50’s. 

We waddled back to our room.  Bill did the laundry while I caught up on the journal.  Yellowstone was quite an adventure.  I’m exhausted.
   
Wednesday, Sept. 14, 2011 – Yellowstone to North Dakota

Up early – 6:30 breakfast in Kelly Inn Lobby.  It was especially packed today.  Our timing wasn’t good with the tour bus departures.  There were a lot of French people who aren’t use to so many choices for breakfast and don’t seem to know buffet protocol.  One French guy took Bill’s toast.  We didn’t make an international incident.

We listened to an audio book about Custer’s last stand while driving to Butte, Montana.  We made a 9 a.m. stop at the Leskovar Honda, but the palace guard there said they couldn’t check our car until 3:00.  We drove on to Billings where we found a really sweet Honda Dealer, Underriner Honda, who immediately took our car, washed it and checked the code with no charge!  Now that’s service!  The result showed a problem with the catalytic converter which means big bucks, but it can wait until we get home.  I looked at all the shiny Hondas in the show room.  The thought did occur to me that we might get a new car to drive home – that lasted for about a Nano second.

Both the Honda Guy and the Gas Station Guy recommended a lunch place in Billings.  The Rib and Chop was excellent, plentiful and reasonable.  Bill had the BBQ and I had the shrimp Po-Boy.  We could feel a Northern blowing in – very cold and very powerful.  Glad we not camping.

The road to Billings, MT
The road to Billings, MT
Nancy really wanted a new car
Nancy really wanted a new car

We drove to our next destination – Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.  The display cases were filled with lots of actual Custer stuff contributed by Custer’s wife, Libby.  We feel like we really know the cast of characters after listening to that audio book.  After the video orientation, we drove through the battlegrounds.  The book really came to life.  You could easily see how the terrain was so deceiving and how easy it was for the hundreds of Indians to be so elusive.  You could also see how difficult it was to get water for the troops.  White tombstones marked where each 7th Cavalry man had fallen (i.e., died).  A few red marble tombstones indicated where the Indian Warriors had died.  Amazing to see in the hollowing, blustery wind.

Yachana High School
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Kids at school "performing"
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield
Little Bighorn Battlefield

We had “done” the park by 4:30.  We had a quick snack.  Bill needed a coke and the caffeine to get us to Medora in North Dakota, and the Badlands Motel.  There were few cars on the road which made the drive all the more beautiful and relaxing.  I took photos of the landscape and sunset through the car window to entertain myself while we listened to the rest of the book “Last Stand.”

On to North Dakota
On to North Dakota
On the road
On the road

We arrived at the Medora Badlands Motel about 8:00 grumpy and hungry (and the room had that musty old motel room smell).  We promptly drank a beer and went to Boots for a pizza.  Boots was mediocre, but the only gig in town that was open.  However, the place was very lively with lots of locals and cowboy types.

Back at the room, we called home.  Brian is in San Francisco on business and Amy was upset.  Zi had been dancing around and injured her elbow.  Amy wanted to dash her off to the E.R.  I suggested she take Zi next door to Martha’s, whose background is in nursing.  We worried a lot needlessly and then called back.  All is fine – no E.R. required.  Amy was helping Zi learn her lines.

Thursday, Sept. 15, 2011 – Theodore Roosevelt National Park – Medora, North Dakota

We had a fun day, even though it was cold and blustery.  We got to the Cowboy Café in downtown Medora about 8:30 and had some good grub in the cutest, quaintest little place.  We fueled up on ham, French Toast, eggs and hash browns, then headed to the Visitor’s Center in the Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

Medora, North Dakota
Medora, North Dakota

Cowboy Cafe
Cowboy Cafe
Bill eating breakfast at the Cowboy Cafe
Bill eating breakfast at the Cowboy Cafe
Medora, ND
St. Mary's Church, Medora, ND

We really like the town and the park.  The Visitor’s Center had a terrific video orientation using scenes from the park cut with Roosevelt’s actual words – very effective.  From the displays, we got a little more of Teddy’s connection with North Dakota – which then was known as the Dakota Territory.  Teddy was a privileged, but sickly, young man from New York.  At about 23, he wanted to hunt Bison so he bought a rail ticket to the Dakota Territory.  He hired a couple guides to help him bag a bison.  He was a little, 98-pound weakling when he arrived.  He returned to New York a few years later as a tough, strong guy 30 pounds heavier.  Now only did he gain the weight, but he also gained the respect of all the mountain men.  Later, he hired a couple of ranchers to start a cattle ranch.  They built a cabin – The Maltese Cross Cabin (named for his cattle brand).  He loved it here, but he only lived here as a rancher for a few years because the bottom fell out of the cattle business.  He ended up going back to New York to pursue his political career, but returned to Medora on several getaways. 

We did the 36-mile drive through the park, stopping for an overview and a short hike here and there.  The North Dakota Badlands are rolling hills chopped up and dotted with Cottonwood, Spruce.  The Little Missouri River cuts through the rolling hills, leaving some pretty amazing geological structures (like red scoria) tucked away. 

Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park

We had a couple of wildlife encounters that made the day even more incredible.  We got to see miles and miles of very lively prairie dogs barking out their warnings and scampering from hole to hole.  Then we witnessed a large herd of bison (or buffalo, means the same) making their way through grasslands, head down eating everything in sight.  Some were even licking the dirt ground along the side of the road.

Prairie Dog Warning
Prairie Dog Warning
Prairie Dog--Theodore Roosevelt NP
Prairie Dog--Theodore Roosevelt NP
Prairie Dog Town
Prairie Dog Town
Prairie Dogs
Prairie Dogs
Buffalo Herd
Buffalo Herd
Buffalo
Buffalo
Bufflao
Buffalo
Bufflao
Buffalo
Bufflao
Buffalo
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park

The wind was blowing hard, cutting to the bone and almost knocking us over, but the views were something.  One couldn’t possibly overlook the “overlooks.”  After the Coal Vein Nature hike, we made a quick Peanut Butter sandwich and ate it huddled in the car to stay out of the howling wind.  We ran out of time and couldn’t do our last hike, the Ridgeline Nature Trail.  We hurried back to the Visitor’s Center for a ranger led program at 1:30 to see Teddy’s cabin, The Maltese Cross.

A golly-gee-whiz Ranger, Jesse, from Tennessee showed us around.  He was very excited about Theodore and the cabin. We saw the rocker Teddy sat in to shoot the bull with the guys down at the General Store.  Jesse told us a lot about Teddy – that he came to the Badlands in 1883 to hunt and returned to New York, but then came back as a rancher and leader. I’m sure the facts will drain out of my head in a few days. 

Theodore Roosevolt's Cabin
Theodore Roosevelt's Cabin
Theodore Roosevolt's Cabin
Theodore Roosevelt's Cabin
Theodore Roosevolt's Cabin
Theodore Roosevelt's Cabin
Theodore Roosevolt's Cabin
Theodore Roosevelt's Cabin

We spent the rest of the day at the Marquis de Mores “chateau”.  The 26-room mansion, built in 1883, was fascinating, but not as fascinating as the Marquis and his wife, the daughter of a wealthy international banker / investor, von Hoffman and his French Creo wife from Louisiana. 

Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores
View from the Chateau
View from the Chateau
Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores
Quito Market
Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores
Chateau de Mores

The Marquis was a French aristocrat who came West to seek his fortune in the cattle / refrigeration (for railroad cars) business.  Along the way, he met and married Medora von Hoffman in France.  Her Daddy gave him $3 million to go out west and start a business.  He landed in this place that wasn’t even a state back then and built their “honeymoon” house, along with the new town (including St. Mary’s Catholic Church).  He named the town “Medora” after his wife.  They loved it here.  They loved to ride and hunt and entertain celebrities and wealthy folks from the East.  Medora was a horseman (oops, I mean horsewoman) and a better marksman than her husband, the Marquis.  She also painted and played the piano, while running the entire household while the Marquis was gone on numerous business trips.  Interestingly enough, the couple came to town back in 1883, the same year as Teddy Roosevelt.  They became fast friends.  Because they were both in the livestock business, they set up the cattlemen’s association.  However, in three years, due to the harsh weather, they couldn’t keep their businesses.
 
The Marquis liked to fence and invited several people to a dual, but only when his honor was violated.  Rumor has it that he even invited T.R. to dual, but the guides at the chateau boldly deny it.  By Medora and the Marquis’s “bigger than life” lives, I got a glimpse into how the West was won.  They set up a town, built a huge meat packing house (which burned to the ground in 1903), built a hotel, established stagecoach lines, set up ranches.  However, bad weather and being passed up for the Postal Service contract put an end to their dreams in the town of Medora.  They returned to New York, then back to France to live out their lives with still lots of money left in the family coffers . . . that is, until the Marquis was murdered in North Africa. The Marquis went on to set up a railroad in IndoChina.  However, he made a business deal in North Africa where he was assassinated at the age of 38, leaving Medora and 3 children behind. Their pal, Theodore Roosevelt’s dream also came to an end in Medora.  He went on to become a Rough Rider in Cuba, then V.P. and President of the United States. 

At 4:30, we called it a day and went back to the motel for our beer.  The wind was getting windier – really howls over the plains.  The little town really closes up.  There were not many places open to dine.  We went to The Little Missouri Saloon and Dining.  Only a few guests were there.  Our waitress is from Macedonia.  She is going back to Macedonia in two weeks to complete her studies as a doctor.  (Funny – What’s with the Macedonian connection?  Our waitress in the Tetons was from Macedonia and studying to be a dentist.)  It’s great to find so many kids from all over the world spending a summer in the Wild West.

Back at the room, I worked on the journal and spent some time emailing my friends bragging about Zion being Annie. (I didn’t notice the old motel smell as much in the room, but, for some reason, the black flies have invaded the place.)

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