Sunday, Sept. 25, 2011 – Alliance, NB - Leadville

We gassed up and had breakfast at a place in town.

On the road, we listened to Michael Pollen’s book, “The Omnivore’s Dilemma.”  We took country roads and watched quaint Nebraska scenes fly by.  The farmlands were just as one would expect with little towns scatted about to break up the monotony.  Although it was Saturday, there was no traffic – no one to pass and no one in the towns.  I was struck by the tall silver silos in the heart of the towns.  They were like skyscrapers connected by a web of railroad tracks. 

With Michael Pollen’s words, it was easy to connect the dots and see that the silos and railroads are a monument to the subsidized farm bill started by Earl Butts.  It produced a glut of cheap corn which needs this system of silos and railroads to move vast qualities of overproduced corn to fatten cows, chickens, make fructose and ethanol and generally make a mess out of our food supply and our lives.  We listened to him explain again and again how this cheap corn has helped the large conglomerates, not the farmer, and, in the end, has created unhealthy food, unhealthy soil, unhealthy bodies and richer corporations. 

Way before Denver, we were getting hungry (and a bit depressed) so we looked for a place to have a little picnic with our famed peanut butter sandwiches.  It wasn’t until after we drove through Denver on I-70 that we spotted a sign to Lookout Mountain and to Buffalo Bill’s grave (William F. Cody famed for his Wild West Show).  We found picnic tables on Lookout Mountain and enjoyed fabulous weather.

After lunch, we drove a little further up into the mountains to check out Bill Cody’s grave and museum.  Turns out they were having a festival and the parking lot was full.  We parked down the road and joined the crowds.  We listened to an old timey band belting out tunes under a bandstand and civil war “wanna-bees” firing an old cannon.  (Why do they like doing that?) We walked up the hill to check out the grave – and then went to the museum.  Good news – it was free today.  Bad news – it was packed.

Lookout Mountain	Buffalo Bill's Grave
Buffalo Bill	Buffalo Bill's Museum

The museum was nicely done. I wanted to drink in all the facts about Cody and try to sort out the myths.  Cody was born in 1847 and died in 1917.  His father died when Cody was just 11,  so Bill had to go off to seek his fame and fortune.  He did about everything a guy could do in the Wild West – gold prospector, Injun Fighter, Civil War Soldier, Fur Trapper, Pony Express Rider and finally putting together the greatest show on earth – The William F. Cody Wild West Show.  The dime novels and books he wrote made all these adventures bigger than life. 

Cody’s Wild West Show turned out to be the forerunner of rodeos and circuses.  He employed 200 - 300 people including Indians (even Sitting Bull for a year), sharp shooters (Annie Oakley was featured), precision horseback riding, and lots of animals (buffalo –even elephants and giraffes).  His show was a hit at the Chicago World Fair.  He almost lost everything on a road trip to New Orleans when the boat sank ruining props and setups.  There was never a dull moment.  He even toured across Europe.  Queen Victoria attended in London and invited him for tea afterwards – a real diplomatic coup.

Cody was a big thinker and a huge risk taker.  He tried to start the town of Cody – but nothing much came of it until after he died.

His personal life didn’t turn out so well.  He had several partners who ran off with the money.  Wild Bill Hickok gambled away the money and ran off to Deadwood where he was murdered (playing poker).  Buffalo Bill married an ugly woman. Rumor has it that he had a fling with Annie Oakley.  Cody and his wife had two daughters and a son – only a daughter survived to adulthood.  The son died from pneumonia when he was only 5.  Cody tried to divorce his wife in 1905, but the judge wouldn’t grant him his freedom until 1910.  At the end of his life, he was in financial ruin, but tried to make a comeback making a movie of his life.  A friend of his who ran the newspaper in Denver loaned him $20,000 – but Cody up and died and couldn’t pay his debt.

Cody’s funeral was a bigger show than any of his “Wild West” shows.  Some people said he wanted to be buried on top of Lookout Mountain right here outside of Denver, but he never really lived in Denver.  Thousands came to view the body which lay in state in the State Capitol building.  The nation and the world were mourning.  Several folks wanted to take his body back to Cody for burial.  An armed tank guarded the grave site for a while.  After his wife (or ex-wife - whatever) died, they buried her next to him and poured concrete over both coffins to discourage grave diggers.  There were so many fascinating stories, but it was getting late and Bill had to pull me away.

We got back on I-70 heading west to Leadville and David and Barbara’s (Bill’s brother and his wife).  The drive through the mountains was wondrous with the Aspen turning yellow.

About 3:30, we arrived at the incredible funky family compound in the heart of Leadville (which they call “Lead-Villa”).  David and Barbara, along with daughter and son-in-law (plus kids), bought a couple of tear down store fronts built in the 1800’s and converted them to a wonderful living space. It’s over 5,000 square feet with lots of bedrooms and bathrooms and common areas.  My eye balls were popping out.  They’ve created such an amazing living space for family get away's.  Have a look for yourself …

Lead-Villa	Lead-Villa
Bill and Barbara	Lead-Villa
Lead-Villa	Lead-Villa

Lead-Villa

Dave and Barbara

We had some wine – caught up and then walked to town.  We had a nice Italian dinner – excellent seafood fettuccini.  On the way home, David helped a falling down drunk named James.  We took him to a bar in town, where they know him well.  His girlfriend had just broken up with him.  He was REALLY DRUNK!

We came back to Lead-Villa to gab some more and then it was lights out.  Really love this place – ghosts and all!
 
Monday, Sept. 26, 2011 – Leadville

After breakfast, Barbara was our tour guide around town while David stayed home to complete a work assignment.

Two-mile high Leadville is the real deal and still the Wild West.  Miners made fortunes overnight.  Lots of strong and sturdy buildings are left behind to remind us of Leadville’s former wealth.  I couldn’t take enough pictures.

Leadville	Leadville
Leadville	Leadville
Leadville	Leadville
Leadville	Leadville
Leadville	Leadville
Leadville	Leadville

We walked through town and then up the hill to tour the Healy House and adjacent Dexter Cabin.  The “Healy House” is a clapboard Greek Revival mansion built in 1878 by August R. Meyer for his bride, Emma. I loved going through the house with its cool Victorian furnishings.  From the parlor window you can see the formal garden with Victorian urns, statuary, garden benches, and gazebo.

Healy House	Healy House
Healy House	Healy House
Healy House	Healy House
Healy House	Healy House

A “Mr. Healy” later bought the house.  He was involved in banking and insurance, I believe.  He turned the place into a high class boarding house.  He asked his cousin Nellie, a former schoolteacher, to come out and run the place.  Nellie turned it into a hub of social life, entertaining guests in the parlor and playing croquet on the lawn.  Mr. Healy died fairly young and left a grieving Nellie.  We saw relics from the past – trunks, clothes, and even an early Murphy Bed so ladies could “entertain” guests in their rooms without the suggestion of a “bed.”

Right next to the Healy House was a log cabin built in 1879 – rustic on the outside, but plush on the inside.   James V. Dexter was a mining investor and businessman and one of Colorado’s first millionaires.  He came from a cultured family – his father was a well-known Shakespearean actor.  Dexter built the cabin when he was already a wealthy man and used it as a getaway.  Besides being an avid hunter, Dexter collected coins, gems, etchings, and paintings. Many a high stakes poker game was played in this cabin as he became known as having the "stiffest and most exclusive private poker club" in Leadville with a minimum bet of $1,000.

Dexter Cabin	Dexter Cabin
Dexter Cabin	Dexter Cabin

We finished the tour of the house and cabin just as some school kids began their invasion.  It was about lunchtime so we walked back to check on David.  We got some fantastic Mexican food at a roach coach parked out by the Safeway and took it back to the family compound.

After lunch, we took a hike along an old mining road which is now the "Mineral Belt Trail." The blue sky with the white clouds moving in and the yellow Aspens made the trail unforgettable

Mineral Belt Trail	Mineral Belt Trail
Mineral Belt Trail	Dave and Bill
Bill and Nancy	Dave and Barbara

We came back to the compound at Happy Hour and had a beer.  David and Bill went off to get ribs and a pizza.  I’m telling you – these guys know where to get GOOD FOOD.

We called Amy.  Brian is on a business trip in Japan – He’s doing well.  Zion gets to meet Sandy, the dog in Annie, at tomorrow’s rehearsal.  The dog, the dog owner, the dog trainer, the stage manager and the director will all be there to work with Zi and the dog.  I know she’ll be thrilled.  The dog is the main reason she tried out for “Annie.”

The highlight of our evening was watching the final episode of “Weeds” Season 7.  Bill and Barb are big BIG FANS.  Afterwards, we hung out and talked – had lots of catching up to do.
 
Tuesday – Sept. 27, 2011 – Leadville to Mesquite
Bill and I got up early, had some breakfast, said good-bye and hit the road for our long trip home.  Trip is really over – sad to say goodbye to David and Barbara.

The drive was beautiful.  It kept us from getting depressed by Michael Pollen’s book “The Omnivore’s Dilemma.”  We feel so unhealthy and unhopeful about getting the rich corporations to stop ruining everything – food, soil, livestock – and do the right thing.  Maybe we’re having guilt from too much red meat on this trip.   

We stopped at the Visitor’s Center in Utah to stretch our legs.  We got a few lunch recommendations from the nice lady at the desk.  We drove to place overlooking the Green River.  We shared a veggie burger and fries (can’t give those up those fries just yet). 

We were back on the road in no time.  Traffic (and trucks) are starting to pick up … the scenery is still a treat – huge rock cliffs, red soil and deep canyons.

We got to Mesquite, Nevada about 5:00 and checked into the Virgin River Casino / Hotel complex.  We had a beer from our cooler and watched the news.  This place is an incredible deal – big, clean room with hot breakfast included for about $32.  Thank you gamblers for subsidizing our stay.

We went to one of the restaurants for their $5.99 prime rib dinner.  The place was packed with old, tired, retired farts like us – very surreal.  The dinner was good – another excellent deal. 

Back to the room to catch up on the journal – one more day on the road … then it’s Home, Sweet Home – We’re ready!
 
Wednesday – Sept. 28, 2011 – Mesquite to San Diego
Bill and I got up early and had a huge breakfast at the Virgin River Creek tucked inside that dark, cavernous, smoky Casino.  Would you believe – it was 6:30 in the morning and people were still hunched over the gambling tables – such a depressing sight, but that didn’t keep us from wolfing down a huge breakfast.  One breakfast came free with the room – eggs, pancakes, bacon, and sausage – and one breakfast of roughly the same magnitude cost us $3.99.  We were heavily subsidized and heavily fortified after our feeding.

We hit the road by 7:30, dreading the long drive back with increasing traffic, big rigs and pollution.  The blue skies that we had grown accustom to in the last 3 weeks had slowly turned to hazy brown.  We experienced the usual jammed freeways in Las Vegas – when will they ever finish I-15?